Static models are scale-down replicas of aircrafts. These aircrafts exhibit the minutest possible detail as they exist on real aircrafts, but are themselves not capable of flight. Although once constructed they largely serve as show pieces, the process of making them is a relentless source of joy and satisfaction to the aeromodeller. Static aeromodels are objects of pride and accomplishment besides serving as learning tools in the world of aircrafts. Construction of these aircraft models (both civil and military) demands a high level of engineering expertise, craft & carpentry and a thorough knowledge about the aircraft being constructed.
Static model kits are available in plastic or wood. The plastic model kits are ideal for beginers, as they come as pre-fabricated parts which only have to be assembled and painted. Go for a medium sized kit like 1/48 scale rather than extremely small or large scale kits. The wooden models on the other hand need shaping of rough cut parts and even fabricating the detailed parts - to the minutest detail, which obviously demands a high skill. Thus invariably, wooden models are only constructed by advanced static aircraft modellers.
The gist of static aeromodelling is to construct aircrafts that are true to scale, include all the possible details and give an authentic paint & finish to the aircraft without bothering about the the balance and weight. To begin with, collect information about the aircraft that you plan to construct which may require a good deal of time-consuming research. Information can be obtained from the Internet or from magazines like the 'Flight', 'Vayu', 'Defence weekly', 'Aviation weekly' or 'Observer Aircraft'etc. Go through books like 'Encyclopedia of Aircrafts' or 'Jane's World air power' which have information about several aircrafts compiled together. Collection of aircraft data from whichever source, helps you to identify specialised aircraft parts and determine their location on the aircraft. Also the unique features of certain aircrafts become evident as you get into further details, all this will be reflected in the authenticity of your model. This data will also provide information on the armaments that the aircraft is designed to carry, the armaments themselves, the air forces to which these aircrafts belong etc. This will further help you to choose the right paint scheme and markings for your model adding to the authenticity and the 'political' correctness of your model!
It is essential to acquaint yourself with the basics of engineering drawing, since most books publish 3-view palns of aircrafts. A 3-view plan is an engineering drawing of an aircraft, when looked at from the bottom (or top), one of the sides and the front. From these three drawings, a modeller must be able to visualise the 3-D shape of the aircraft. This comes with practise and a prolonged exposure to this hobby. But for beginners, it is always a good idea to to see the actual photgraphs / pictures of the aircraft and make the interpretation of the the engineering drawings. What is not clear from the drawings should become clear from the photgraphs or vice-versa in later stages...
Once this homework is done, the next important and crucial stage is the shaping of the individual pats. Care must be taken to maintain authentic shapes and sizes and this requires a constant comparison of the part-in-making with the master drawing using a ruler or a divider or even calipers for small precision parts. Pre-fabicated plastic parts eliminate the need to continuously monitor the shape / size and relative proportions, but nevertheless require smoothing out uneven surfaces to make close fits or sometimes a bit of sanding to prime the surface for painting. Once the parts are shaped they have to be assembled and alligned at the correct angles and inclinations. One should not miss out some of the minute but significant features like ADF, VOR, HF, VHF antenae, pitot static tubes, under carraige, strobes, navigational lights and the beacons. It is easier to fix these details on to the finished (or even partially painted model) to give a clean finish. Some modellers prefer painting individual parts and then assembling painted parts which they claim is easier...
To finish a model after construction, remove all burrs with a sand paper of appropriate grade (depending on the material). Use a commercially available Nitro cellulose based NC filling paste (putty) to fill cracks, depressions and holes in the aircraft. Use only as much required and let dry for 24 hours. After the putty has thoroughly dried, wet sand the surfaces with water using a water proof 400 No. sand paper. This would give a very smooth finish to your aircraft, 'marble finish' as experts call it...
To paint the aircraft, decide on the colour scheme. If it is a civilian aircraft, it could be made a passenger aircraft or a frieghter. Choose your favourite airline and study their paint scheme from a coloured photograph, alternatively, devise your own paint scheme for your proposed airlines! Military aircrafts are usually painted in camouflages or in rare cases - display color schemes. The most common camouflages painted are the desert camouflage or the forest camouflage. Marine, sky and snow camouflages are also not uncommon. Camouflages may have plain backgounds with little dashes of colour. They may be in form of stripes or patches or may be multilayered. Refer books and photographs to acquaint yourself with paint details. Once completely painted, customise your aircraft with specific military markings, symbols and insignias. It would talk about the history of your aircraft, it's valour and affiliations to diffrent squadrons. These markings may be either ready made 'decals' supplied with the kit or make them yourself using automobile radium tape. This is really an artist's job requiring craft skills, but once you master it, you are limited only by your imagination...
Once the aircraft is ready, you may polish it using a wax polish or a silicon polish (the same stuff which is used for shining cars) for extra luster. Dust and repolish your model at intervals, if you keep it open on a table or shelf or better still, keep it in a glass show case protected from dust. I am sure with a little practise and dedication you will soon have a fleet of civil aircrafts or a mini-airforce in your home...
